How to store polymer clay

Storing polymer clay is a big topic, considering the prices of better brands and mediocre quality of worse or no-brand stuff.

PC may be stored in different conditions, depending on its state (phase of use).

1. Raw unprocessed PC

2. Raw PC rolled into millefiori canes/formed into parts of the final piece

3. Raw finished objects (things covered in millefiori, raw beads)

4. Baked stuff

So, in order:

1. Raw unprocessed PC

First thing is, raw PC dries. It is affected by air (gets hard/brittle and dry, forces you to use lots of energy to revitalize it), temperature (it gets pre-baked and there is no way to undo this) and various unfriendly substances (it reacts, loses colour or dissolves).

Unfriendly substance may be, among others, water. Water will make a muddy mess out of your PC and it’s hard to clean this up afterwards – I’ve never had that much patience. I won’t even go into solvents and related – just keep your PC as far from the chemicals as possible.

Other unfriendly substance for polymer clay is… any other polymer clay. Of course if they made contact in an uncontrolled way. That’s because depending on colour and brand, this may lead to them sticking together, contaminating or even mixing the colours, if you don’t manage to separate them cleanly. It’s prudent to keep your pc separated into colours, preferably each in a different container.

Some brands of clay have a defect that demonstrates as “bleeding” colours. No idea if it’s the dye or the plasticizer, but at least once I handled black clay which not only was not black, but purple (after mixing with white gave various shades of pink), but black-white millefiori after a while became black-pink. Look:

fioletowe_-_wazoniki_-_i_-_swiecznik

Chemistry also affects what you can store your clay in. As polymer clay is, simply, PVC with plasticizer, when in contact with other plastics of similar nature it may damage it. And in damaging it, its own structure will change (as plasticizer is used up to dissolve the other material), so it’s good to know which materials to avoid. If you unwrapped your clay, you can:

* try to wrap it back in the original wrapping and together with other pieces in a common storage, making sure they don’t touch (meaning that the clay doesn’t touch)

* each piece into an individual ziplock baggie – clay doesn’t react with that easily

Boxes and other equipment, like swirling aids, should be:

* glass

* polipropylene (they have “pp” in a triangle somewhere)

Avoid:

* bottles and jars marked “PET” – when exposed to clay, they dissolve as you watch them

* hard cd/dvd cases – they may seem great ie. to swirl, but they get awful dirty immediately – thats polistyrene, just like ice cream containers (that’s why you should not store clay in ice cream boxes)

2. Raw clay, processed

To store millefiori canes, you can:

1. Cut the cane in equal pieces

2. Take a roll of silicone-covered baking paper and cut piece at least as wide as the cane pieces are long

3. Wrap each piece into that paper tape: wrap one tightly, put the second, wrap around that one and first again, add third and so on, making sure no two cane pieces touch.

4. Put into non-reacting box (best to match length in pt 1 to that box) and put them in such a way that you see the “faces” of canes through the top or, if box is transparent, through the side.

5. All this, with a lid, put into your fridge or, even better, freezer. The canes will be much easier to slice after freezing.

To store elements (pieces of a doll or a box) – flat parts it’s best to layer with baking paper, the more round ones – on something that will not allow them to roll away (VVV of paper, pieces in the “rows”). Remember not to store them for too long, because if they dry, you won’t be able to attach them to the main item.

3. Items covered with clay, beads etc before baking

After covering or finally preparing for baking, we don’t always have enough items to justify heating up the oven (or we plan to create bigger batch of something). Until then, we need to secure them somehow.

It is good to make sure they aren’t exposed to sunlight (colours, chemical structure), water (see pt 1) and dust, which will get stuck to any sticky surface and is hard to remove if the finishing doesn’t include polishing (ie. dolls). From my experience, I recommend lining a baking tray with silicone paper, putting your waiting items there (with appropriate spacing) and… putting them into the oven, if nobody else is using it. Dry, not too warm (yet), no dust and no younger siblings will put their tiny dirty fingers in.

Do not put the items too closely together, as vases or figurines stuck together are hard to pull apart, and sometimes tiny movement of the tray when putting into the oven is enough to move the pieces of clay and get them stuck together.

4. Baked items

Baked polymer clay is effectively plastic. Sometimes crumbly or breakable, but plastic. Heating it up to the baking temperature (130-140 C) doesn’t hurt it, but it shouldn’t be exposed to open fire. Prolonged sunlight exposure can cause colours loss or change, depending on the clay brand.

Clay is easily breakable, so baked items shouldn’t be kept in places where they can be crushed, chipped or can fall.

Baked/cooked clay theoretically should not bleed colour, however due to specifics of some dyes and unknown quality of products of some brands, in case of adding clay elements to clothes or covers, and the need to wash these, it’s best to make an experiment of washing a few beads or buttons in warm soapy water with a sample of the cloth.

Sum up: Pay attention how you store your PC in all its various forms, and you will be able to use it much longer than if you leave it unattended. Nothing more wasteful than creating a bunch of interesting items and letting them get covered with thick layer of dust. I know something about it – been there, done that.

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Brown and turquoise FIMO dragon

I have bought yet another book by the talented Christi Friesen, Dragons.

I promptly made my first attempt at dragon-making. This one here is the second one I made.

All FIMO plus glass pearls.

Brown and turquoise fimo dragon


Advice to young magicians

I mean, to young crafters. Of any kind.

1. Don’t buy too much.

In what we call in Poland “straw zeal” (słomiany zapał) – which is when you like something keenly and suddenly lose the interest – you can spend way too much at the beginning and be left with way too large quantity of odds and ends. Sometimes you will have more leftovers than materials you had actually used for any project.
Buy no more than you can predict to use in the first project or practice sessions.
This will save you:
* money
* storage space
* grief, if the craft you’re trying isn’t as much fun as you expected and you don’t have any other use for the materials or tools

2. Don’t invest in high-level tools at first.

Of course, trying to use dad’s huge nail pliers for your delicate 0,3mm wire or large-scale drill for detailed woodwork isn’t the way. But you don’t have to buy your first set of pliers for 160 bucks. Go to your friendly local Lidl on “hobby day” (or any kind of home improvement store anytime at all) and ask for basic set of cutting, round and chain-nose pliers for hobby/jewlery purposes. Craft stores may also have something to offer to beginner crafters, but remember – the salesperson may try to convince you to spend much more than it’s worth for beginners set. My first set, a few years back, was 4 pliers (the three above + bent ones) and I spent equivalent of $6 on it. It worked pretty well and I even could give them to another – much more talented – jewelry maker, when I got a new set.
So, if you are keen on beginning something new, a new craft or hobby, think VERY carefully about supplies you want to buy. In case of polymer clay – don’t freeze your cash in special-for-fimo blades, or brandname surface covers. Buy snap-off blades (replacements for this type of knife) or use razor blades and get a large, smooth, ceramic tile (left after kitchen or bathroom do-over).

3. Start small.

You don’t have to have all kinds of tools at once. No, polymer clay working doesn’t really REQUIRE a bead roller, wavy blade and pasta machine. Beads may be rolled manually, wavy blade is needed for specific techniques and pasta machine can really wait until you make sure you want to put your money in this area. You don’t need the largest available standing loom. Get one which is 30x50cm and I assure you, it will be big enough for you just to try your hand at making rugs or other weaving.

4. Choose your first project wisely.

If you pick a project that uses lots of resources and time, you may easily become disappointed with the whole idea. Also, if you choose a project way above your level of experience,
Polymer clay? Simple figures, no mixing media, maybe a small millefiori cane (flower ones are the easiest comparing to effect).
Beading? Leave that tiara pattern, make a bracelet. Come on, this is just for start.
Weaving? No, not a whole *carpet*, start with a rag rug or coarse wool mat.
Crocheting or knitting? Scarf. A long one, a short one, but a scarf can be used and be useful even if it’s not as long as planned. A hat or a jumper has to be properly finished, and that takes time. Scarf you can give up on finishing any time you want.
The same goes for every craft – quilting, cross-stitching or mosaic. Pick wisely the first project to make sure you feel comfortable with your tools and materials and with the whole technique as itself.

Now, why am I writing this? Because I have vast experience in how “storage problems” may look. They look like 8 or 10 cubic metres of STUFF gathered in my living-room. Includes paints, crayons, pastels, beads (and really lots of them), wires, 3 boxfulls of knitting wool/cotton/acrylic, thread, needles, pins, jewelry findings, DREMEL drill and its bits, polymer clay (around 2 litres of various types), pasta machine, boxes of boxes of organizers and 2 boxfulls (see above) of craft books.

Now, if you don’t want to became swamped by your own collection of interesting and disturbing craft leftovers, you should either buy reasonably (which is usually a problem, as most of crafters are related to magpies and hamsters – “Ooooh! Shiny! And I’m going to take it and stuff it in my nest!”)) OR, having hardened against the pain of parting with your storage contents, try to sell some doubles on eBay.

Give me your own ideas and experiences on effects of craft shopping sprees – what was the most useless and outrageous thing you brought home just because it looked pretty and SOMEWHAT useful? Huge, shiny, pink bead? A tool you can’t use? Useless organizer box nothing fits in? A ball of wool you’re allergic to? :)


Green flower vase (FIMO on glass)

This is a glass bottle covered with green-coloured FIMO millefiori slices. Partly transparent, so when backlit with a little desk lamp, it looks marvelous.


Flower bowl (FIMO)

This bowl was made by sticking tiny slices of FIMO millefiori canes on a metal bowl. It was baked and then removed from the bowl, giving it a nice, shiny inner surface.


Under-the-glass mat (FIMO millefiori)

This is a polymer clay (FIMO) mat, to be put under your glass to protect the table. Additionally, when backlit with a lamp, it makes nice visual effect, as it is made of semi-transparent FIMO.

It is made using the millefiori technique, which is a descendant of the glass millefiori, used for many centuries with glass (most fameous – Venetian glass).


Pink polymer clay (FIMO) covered glass bowl

Big, round glass bowl covered with pink and blue millefiori canes slices.
Most probably will be used as part of a lamp.


Polymer clay (FIMO) covered glass bowl

An IKEA bowl covered with earthtone millefiori canes.

Edit: Added another photo.


Green FIMO bowl (on glass)

Various green-colored FIMO millefiori canes, mostly transparent, combined over a glass bowl (BLENDA by IKEA). Backlit with a desk lamp.

Green bowl


FIMO candle holder (backlit)

An IKEA candle holder, covered with FIMO. The polymer clay here is used in millefiori form (specifically, a Skinner blend jelly roll, where the blend was done between translucent blue and translucent yellow FIMO).
Tools used:
pasta machine, glass rolling pin, clay blades, sandpaper.

The whole thing is here lit with an IKEA KVART lamp.

Here in normal light:

Edit: another photo added