Yarn Review – Rozetti Sarayli

Brand: Sarayli

Producer: Rozetti

Country: Turkey

Contents: 70% acrylic 30% wool

Thickness: 180m/100g

Colours: mixes

Producer’s page – examples of finished work, too.

 

I’ve bought two balls of random Sarayli yarn when I was on vacation and the only source of handmade materials was a local village yarnshop. The existence of one was a bit of a surprise, in fact, but I made use of it ;)

The yarn crocheted wonderfully into this granny-square scarf (3 sq per yarn ball, some tiny amount left due to uneven crocheting).

IMG_20131019_090052_2

Pros:

+ my favourite thickness

+ nice to touch

+ fabulous colours – have a look at the producer’s page, there’s more! (ok, some are a bit childish/sugary, yes)

+ fuzz enough to make sure the work is stable

+ very stable thickness

+ very affordable

Cons:

– fuzz enough to make undoing a pain

Summary: will ABSOLUTELY buy more. At least one more ball of this colourset, to make the scarf longer.

 

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Lily of the valley box

A commission to make a jewelry-box with Lily of the Valley decoration. It is a big, pretty heavy box and I hope I did good work on it (because it’s already in the post and slowly approaching its destiny).


Used:
Big wooden jewelry box with two trays
Lily of the Valley napkin
Amsterdam acrylic paints
Stamperia colla per decoupage
Stamperia Vernice protettiva lucida
Koh-i-noor acrylic varnish


More trinkets than jewelry

As lately I’m having a bit of a block as far as jewelry is concerned, I focused on decoupage. Having obtained some pretty nice papers, I have already covered a tray, several boxes, two money boxes and a mirror frame. At this moment it’s a bit like looking for new items to cover as I have so many pretty pictures to stick on stuff.

In these few days, I have learned (sometimes in the hard way) several simple truths about this way of decorating items:
1. Sand wood before painting. If it’s too rough, no amount of paint is going to make this thing look smooth.
2. Don’t paint both sides of an item at the same time, or you will be left with absolutely no way of putting it aside to dry. May sound funny, but try laughing when you have painted whole hairbrush very carefully and now the only part that you can hold is the ‘brush’ part (and there is almost no way to make a hairbrush lay straight supported only in one point)
3. If an object is varnished and you want to paint it, sand the varnish off. Or you paint will come off in flakes. A friend suggested that using a primer is the way to do this. It is, I agree. Just read the description to see if you’re buying the right kind of primer. But if you have any repressed stress to get rid of, sanding the thing off with a bit of sandpaper or rotary tool may be a good outlet :)
4. A “fan” brush is a verrrrry good friend of anyone who needs nice, flat surface of quickly-thickening varnish.
5. Water. LOTS OF IT. A huge bowl, big enough to immerse the brushes whole. Changed often. Otherwise you will have wooden sticks with lacquered/acrilic-dried blobs on the end.
6. Fabric softener does wonders for partly-stiff-dried brushes. Sometimes you may have to, unfortunately, shave a few hairs from a paticularily unlucky specimen.
7. Vacuum cleaner is your second best friend, just after the breathing mask. Or pneumoconiosis may be the first thing you hear next time you visit your doctor. Or, at least, a severe case of bronchitis. Lots of small wood and paint particles will fly around when you get to sanding your items and you really don’t want a layer of acrylic dust to cover your respiratory system.
8. Unfortunately (as concerns the above), sometimes sanding a painted surface is just a must. Some types of wood and ways of cutting make it well-nigh impossible to sand them properly when they are raw and clean. So it takes a first, very thin layer of paint, to make these before-invisible small splinters to stand up and be ready to be sanded off. But, of course, with the paint that covers them.
9. Also, when decorating a picture or mirror frame, don’t forget to check whether it is already prepared to hung in one direction or another. If it already has a nail-hole predrilled you may find yourself with roses that grow downwards. I did.
10. As per rule, whenever you want paper to get translucent from the napkin glue, it wont. If you wish it to stay opaque, it will get nicely transparent. Really.

So, without further ado, the effect and sources of above meditations.


Teal Glass Pendant

And the fourth glass coin pendant, this time it’s rich teal, with copper wire and Miyuki beads.

Teal Glass pendant


Light Green Glass Pendant

Puffed coin of light green lampwork, silver-filled glass, wrapped in copper wire, plus a small, heart-stamped ring of copper-colored metal.


Watch movement pendant

A watch movement in a wire-wrapped frame with a green glass wired in.


Dragon peyote

This is a peyote dragon, the same design used twice on different sizes of beads.

“Gold” background dragon is 2mm beads on a non-flexible, thin fishing line.
Unfortunately, the “gold” rubbed away during the work, that’s why the outlines of the dragon (which were supposed to be darker than the background) are now invisible, which makes the poor creature look somewhat gaunt.

Red backgroud dragon is done in 3,2mm beads, very regular and lasting, on thick and strong sewing thread. Makes it much softer in structure than the one done with the fishing line. Done as a birthday present for a friend.

Design is my own.


Green flower vase (FIMO on glass)

This is a glass bottle covered with green-coloured FIMO millefiori slices. Partly transparent, so when backlit with a little desk lamp, it looks marvelous.


Flower bowl (FIMO)

This bowl was made by sticking tiny slices of FIMO millefiori canes on a metal bowl. It was baked and then removed from the bowl, giving it a nice, shiny inner surface.


Polymer clay (FIMO) covered glass bowl

An IKEA bowl covered with earthtone millefiori canes.

Edit: Added another photo.